THE CASTLE

We find a light and airy room, (with one of the best wall papers I have ever seen, Trees... yes trees!) The dining room is open and modern, with some tables even having a prime view of the open kitchen. I like this in a restaurant, because it tells me they have nothing to hide, and like to include guests in the theatre that is a busy kitchen. Our table is exactly where I requested when booking, in the window, although due to the blustery night, we are told if it is too draughty, another table is on standby for us. As soon as we sit, a bottle of water is brought over, along with the choice of menu’s for the night, a la carte, or a 7 course tasting menu (with optional wine flight). Even though quite reasonable at £34, we decide to stick to the a la carte, and settle in with our wine choice, a stunning Austrian Gruner Veltliner. The wine list is varied and reasonable, and also filled with cocktail choices, even a cocktail of the day on the top of our menu. Having decided on our courses, we are brought a choice of bread, either walnut or foccacia. Both are delicious, but they wouldn’t hurt to be served warm, as they were obviously homemade. Next, a small plate from the kitchen arrives, with two individual crostini, topped with home hot smoked salmon, beetroot cubes and pesto. It is thoughtful, most welcome and delicious.

The starters arrive, and our choices don’t disappoint. The other half has salad of Pigeon and Cornish Blue on walnut bread, which is griddled. The pigeon is beautifully pink, although it is voiced that they have been a bit stingy with the cheese. I am presented with a cappuccino cup, topped with frothed milk and the obligatory chocolate sprinkles. Below is a warm, perfectly textured puree of butternut squash, flecked with sage, and sumptuous, pan fried chunks of scallop. Perfectly seasoned, it is spoon by spoon of heaven, incredibly original and nothing short of sublime.

Next up our main courses, and across from me is venison medallions, with smoked leeks, creamy mash, and chocolate sauce. The meat is wonderfully rare, and I applaud the chef for serving it as he knows it tastes best this way, although I fear a little too pink for some. Normally a leek-a-phobe, he enjoys the rich smokiness, balanced by the decadent chocolate sauce. As a fish lover, I opt for the grilled sea bass, with spinach and Jerusalem artichoke three ways. The plate, a flurry of green herbs and golden crisps looked imaginative and tempting. Below my sprigs of herbs, I found the griddled sea bass, and my Jerusalem artichoke trio. It was served mashed, boiled in wedges and in delicate crisps, all lovely, and a new experience for me. Now I always eat my skin, but in this instance it had been griddled a little too much and was a little burnt, therefore overpowering any other flavours. I pulled it away, and enjoyed the moist, tender fish beneath with only a slight pang of disappointment.

Pudding was always a given, but here we had the option of three sweets, or an assiette plate, with a little portion of all of them! We both opted for this, to save any arguments later, and it worked. We were served a long plate, with a mini crème brulee, a small square of brownie with Chantilly cream, and a sliver of lemon tart topped with chocolate ice cream. It made a perfect end to a wonderful meal.

The service was excellent, with the attentive and competent staff tending to our every need, and running a very busy room between the two of them. Flickering candlelight, solid wood tables and thoughtful touches created a lovely atmosphere, and it was worth every penny of our £77 bill. As I left I couldn’t stop thinking about my scallop and butternut squash cappuccino........ it had flair, character and personality, just like the restaurant itself, and I’d go back for more of both in an instant.